L'Enfant Terrible

L'Enfant Plan of 1792 - Picture courtesy of Wikipedia

by blogSpotter

When I visited Washington D.C. in the summer of 2008, I found the cityscape to be impressive. In the government district, the streets are wide boulevards with substantial, Federal-style buildings gracing every other block. The National Mall is an awe-inspiring space with treasures like the Lincoln Memorial and the National Monument adding historical dimension to a visually sweeping, stunning view. It reminds me somewhat of Europe. It might call to mind Paris’ L’Arche de Triomphe or London’s Saint Paul Cathedral (and surrounding blocks). This wouldn’t be at all a coincidence – Washington D. C. was designed by a French engineer and city planner by the name of Peter L’Enfant.

Now who is this Peter L’Enfant? He was a French expatriate who loved the “American Experiment” so much that he fought in our Revolution and became a permanent American resident. He was also an extremely gifted Renaissance man who excelled in the visual arts. He could build furniture, paint portraits, design houses and better still, design cities. His plan for our nation’s capital was inspired by no less than Paris, Milan and Amsterdam. L’Enfant was a brave man – he served in our Army and rose to the rank of captain even while surviving a battle injury. He was also a likable man, and became fast friends with none other than George Washington. He painted Washington’s portrait, and endeared himself enough that he was Washington’s first choice for designing a Federal capital city on the Potomac in 1790.

L’Enfant conceived of a city with broad avenues and palatial buildings. His Utopian principality was punctuated with fountains, gardens, circular intersections and noble statuary. The view was well-received by Washington and Jefferson -- work commenced right away. Unfortunately, L’Enfant’s “Frenchness” emerged in the ensuing months – an almost manic, egotistical control freak took over the operation. This French “Mr. Hyde” undertook to design the entire city, including private residences and areas beyond the original scope. At length, there was a predictable butting of heads with others, particularly Commissioner Andrew Endicott. L’Enfant’s overreach would have depleted funds needed for the basic city infrastructure. Washington had no choice but to let go of L’Enfant. The remaining tasks were turned over to Endicott. To Endicott’s credit, the basic L’Enfant plan was left intact.

After this unfortunate episode, L’Enfant had a distinguished career as professor and architect in other venues. He did manage to run up very large bills some of which were partly paid by a settlement he reached with the Federal government. (L’Enfant had sued for back pay after being dismissed). His big-spending ways still left him to die as a pauper with $46 worth of maps and survey tools to his name. His hypomanic behavior apparently was as evident in personal finance as it was in city design.

Roll the calendar forward to 1901, at which time Washington D.C. had experienced a bit of “urban drift” before that was even much of a current topic. Slums and ugly buildings had appeared on the main government streets; a train station intruded right on the National Mall. L’Enfant’s vision had been compromised and men with the advantage of a century’s distance could see that was the case. They were able to separate the brilliant city planner from his personal foibles. The McMillan Plan was enacted to beautify Washington, tear down the eye sores and restore L’Enfant’s good name.

L’Enfant’s body was exhumed from a pauper’s grave site and he was buried in Arlington National cemetery with an appropriately respectful ceremony.  His gift to America was finally recognized  for the national legacy that it was and very much is. L’Enfant’s ideas were bigger than anyone’s scope, but maybe in retrospect,  he envisioned an America that was beyond anyone’s scope.
© 2012 blogSpotter